Being the self taught handyman that I am, it never entered my mind to have anyone else do the work. In retrospect, if you have the money, I suggest farming out some operations to save time and grief. If you have an inclination to be breathing at age 80 or more, let someone else use the solvents, paints and degreasers that can ultimately ruin your health. I always did my own work but was very careful about wearing respirators and following safety guidelines as closely as possible. My career in the Union construction trades taught me about safety!
As the mechanicals are easily worked on if the body is removed, this should be the place to start. Beginning with a disconnected battery, all wiring attachments to the engine should be removed. This includes the generator, starter, lighting terminals, coil and whatever connections that will remain with the tub upon its removal. You can purchase an entirely new wiring harness or replace it by hand. I have always done them a strand at a time as there are not that many connections. I assume this is a neater job, but again have never installed an aftermarket harness so I cannot confirm.
Remove the grille, hood and fenders. Get some tags and baggies to label and store the fasteners so you can reuse or obtain correct size replacements. KEEP EVERY THING YOU REMOVE. You probably have no idea if it was original or a later addition. Throw items in a plastic bin that you are unsure about. Many years ago, I threw out an aging radiator only to find that while the radiator was easily replaced, the correct fan shroud was nearly impossible to find. Small parts don’t take up much room.
Try and unbolt the tub at its mounting points. If they are unmovable, cut them. The bolts in the tub floor can easily be replaced when cut off. The lower side flanges bolt to a tapped hole on the frame and can usually be unscrewed. Use leverage on all bolts if needed. Remember that its easier to work a bolt out that have a broken stud to get out. Use heat / vibration for success.
A decent 4 1/2″ angle grinder with cutoff discs is just what you need; a sawzall with a long blade is also usefull for reaching tight places.
Remove entire steering assembly or pull just the steering wheel. It depends on how high you can lift the tub. 4 guys can lift it over the top of the steering column with wheel removed. Time to clean it, degrease it and get it repaired/painted. (Another topic)
Remove propellor shafts.
Pull the whole drivetrain out. (You can get 2 ton hoists for $100 on sale at Harbor Freight) Only a few mounting points.
You are now faced with a frame and drivetrain, probably grease covered and rusty. Do you sandblast or just clean? Caked on layers of grease has to be removed manually as detergents wont do heavy work. This step must be undertaken prior to sandblasting or painting. With the advent of “rust resolvers” on the market today, you can clean and chemically modify the iron oxide (rust) without getting into abrasive sand.
If you choose sandblasting, get the operator to use it lightly. Cover any movable parts with layers of canvas to protect them. (Steering,king pins and clutch crossover tube are danger areas.) Duct tape over the differential flanges. Spring shackles should be kept free of sand also. Once completed, DON”T DELAY – spray (with Zinc Chromate before primer for the ultimate in protection). Topcoat with your choice of color. Many original color samples are found at: www.willysjeep.com
Thanks for all the great information.